Color corrections can be intimidating, but they don't have to be. There's no need to be afraid of that client that comes in once a year with their hair all out of whack. Why don't you go develop a rational fear, like sink holes, or birds? Our mission is to build your confidence behind the chair, so you can take on ANY color, like a bada**. Today, we will be telling you what Gina Bianca, newly appointed Global Color Director for RUSK did with our model Ashley's hair, who hadn't gotten a treatment in, wait for it, 11 months. Read on to learn how to tackle those "hey, haven't seen you in a while...." clients.
- Formula 1: (Foilayage) 1 oz. Rusk Deepshine Ultimate Blonde Gentle Cream Lightener + 3 oz. RUSK10 Volume, Working to RUSK 20 Volume
- Formula 2: (Base Color) 1 oz. Rusk Deepshine Permanent 4.000NC + 1 oz. 4.62RV + .5 oz 5.22VV + 2 inches 4.11AA + 3.75 oz of RUSK 20 Volume
- Formula 3: (Lowlight 1) Rusk Deepshine Permanent Hair Color 1 oz. 4.000NC + 1 oz. 4.62RV + .5 oz. 5.55MM + 3.75 oz. RUSK 20 Volume
- Formula 4: (Lowlight 2) RUSKIn10 1.5 oz 5M + 4 Inches of Boost + 3 oz. Rusk 30 Volume
- Formula 5: (Highlight) Rusk Deepshine Permanent 1 oz. 6.4C + 1 oz. 7.43CG + .5 oz 6.66RR + 2 inches Triple Action Clear + 3.75 oz 30 Rusk Universal Developer
- Formula 6: (Topcoat) 2 oz. Deepshine Goss Xpress 9VR + 2 oz Rusk Zero Lift for 5 Minutes
This year, newly appointed Global Director of Color Gina Bianca (@iamginabianca) wanted to deliver a technique that could help artists tackle color corrections and help make more money.—in less time! The model chosen was Ashley Mauriello, Sr. Director of Education for Rusk. Ashley is a new Mom and had waited 11 months to refresh her hair. She was the perfect candidate for a color correction on stage! Gina collaborated with Kate Dattilo, Rusk’s Blonding and Dimensional Color Specialist to create a new look for Ashley!
Hair History: Our model Ashley was a natural level 3 with 20% gray with 4-inches of regrowth. The next band was permanent faded violet brown hair color, which was layered over a band of over processed blonde that was lightened multiple times and colored with red direct dyes. Ashley has been lightening her hair since she was in hair school in 2008. She became a redhead and continued lightening and using direct dyes up until 2020, using primarily copper tones. In 2021 she colored her hair with Rusk Deepshine Permanent VV and PV tones. In October 2021 she used Rusk Elimin8 Color Corrector on her hair and let it relax for almost a year. The Elimin8 removed a lot of her previous hair color and exposed her blonde. That’s the amazing thing about Elimin8—it doesn’t affect your natural hair color and brings you to the lightest you’ve ever been- without damage!
Gina wanted to stick with Ashley’s love for copper and reds but also give her a low- maintenance look. Gina decided on a level 4 Brown-Red-Violet to produce a natural and seamless grow out. She knew Ashley needed dimension so she collaborated with Kate Dattilo (@hair_bykate) to build in a dimensional Foilayage placement that would allow the reds and coppers to pop! On Stage at the BTC Show, Gina melted in 3 formulas in a stacked, triangle pattern showcasing several ways to melt and color the hair on Kate’s prepped canvas!
Rusk’s key Artists Matt Swinney (@matt.swinney) and Gina Bianca (@iamginabianca) believe deeply in collaboration and working together to create finished looks. During prep time, their entire teams including members of Gina’s Salon (The Network Salon) and Matt’s Salon (Evolution Salon) collaborated on all of the models, with help from @ktbhair as well. Each model was worked on by each member of the Rusk Team. During prep Gina wanted to Foilayage her stage model first, so @hair_bykate stepped in to create the perfect canvas to showcase the stage technique, Melting into Fall (MIF ) Kate “built the house” and Gina would “paint the house”. Both aspects of the technique were incredibly important and they each focused on their own part to create a magical end result. Ashley was also cut by Matt Swinney, styled by Michael Dahl. Her color was also finished after the stage presentation by Bridget Reddington assisted by Alexandra Teske and Taylor Burwell.
SHOUTOUT TO ALL ARTISTS:
Gina Bianca #MeltingIntoFall Placement @iamginabianca
Matt Swinney Haircut @matt.swinney
Michael Dahl Styling @michaeldahlevolution
Kate Dattilo Foiling Placement @hair_bykate
Alexandra Teske Stage Assistant Application @itsblendxsations
Taylor Burwell Makeup @taylorlynnheair
Bridget Reddington Finished Application and Toning @bridget_reddington
Kate’s Signature Foilayage Technique:
- Starting with Kate’s signature mountain parting in a V section she started in the back with bold pops to create ribbons for Gina’s final color.
- This placement accents the background color as well as focal points when the model pulls her hair forward.
- Continuing up the head to the crown she went in horizontal into a Mohawk section leaving about 3 inches in between each foil.
- Frame work was three back to back foils following the curve of her hairline leading into a diagonal placement on the sides to complete the head.
Gina’s Signature Melting into Fall Technique
Melting into Fall has been a popular technique Gina has taught for about 7 years. The technique is a dimensional color technique that utilizes a simple road map that can be customized, creating limitless opportunities.
- MIF starts with a base color, followed by triangle sections that can be customized based on section size/angle, formulation choices, solid or melted placement, balayage pops, weaving and so much more.
This technique is perfect for reinventing your appointment book and revamping your gray coverage clients into dimensional gorgeous color. Instead of adding balayage to the technique on stage, Gina wanted to showcase and focus on our beautiful color palettes in Deepshine and Ruskin10 , so the Foilayage prep was a critical part of having such a gorgeous dimensional color!
- Rusk Deepshine Ultimate Blonde Gentle Cream Lightener: Flexible mixing ratio 1:1 up to 1:2 for controlled gentle lift up to 7 levels
- Rusk Deepshine Permanent Hair Color: Mixing ratio 1:1.5
- RuskIn10: Flexible Mixing Ratio 1:1 up to 1:2 featuring micro pigment technology to process in only 10 minutes, non-progressive risk free hair color
- Rusk Gloss Xpress: 5 Minute Gloss for 25 washes! The perfect topcoat to any color to add shine, comb-ability and condition for all hair types.
Rusk Universal Developers: ZERO LIFT, 10-40 VOLUME
TO LEARN MORE, SHOP EXCLUSIVE DEALS + THE CHANCE TO VISIT OUR RUSK LAB WITH MATT & GINA VISIT : https://ruskhair.com/collections/behind-the-chair-stylist-specials